Poipet Travel Guide
Poipet hosts Cambodia's main border crossing with Thailand, which links north-western Cambodia to Aranyaprathet, and hence Bangkok. Cross-border activity has made the town grow to be larger than its provincial capital, Sisophon.
It is located on the fully paved National Highway 5 which runs to Sisophon and then further on the south side of the Tonle Sap Lake to Battambang and Phnom Penh. At Sisophon, National Highway 6 branches off to provide a fully paved arterial route along the north of the Tonle Sap to Siem Reap and Phnom Penh.
TaxisAn 'official' taxi to Siem Reap costs an offensive US$48 or US$12 (500 Baht) per passenger. While posted in written form, this may be subject to change. The police-enforced cartel takes its share per taxi and trip, probably about one third of the price. Negotiation is very difficult but should be possible given that a taxi outside the cartel should cost about US$30. Negotiate the price in dollars, baht prices tend to be inflated.
There's no rules against introducing yourself to fellow travelers and sharing the ride, touts may even take care of that.
Drivers that work for the cartel will generally deliver tourists to wherever they choose in Siem Reap without any problems. Though possible tricks include being dropped in a dusty parking lot out of town or at a commission paying guesthouse (which is most of them) or the driver pretending to not know the destination and needing to ask at his "office", where you’ll be dropped off to change into Tuk-tuks (see the bus section below). Simply do not pay until you are happy with the destination. Do not believe that taxis are prohibited from entering the center of Siem Reap.
Wherever you end up, tuk tuk drivers will be waiting. A fare within town should be $1; though Siem Reap is easily covered on foot.
Get Around
The town is relatively easily covered on foot, for those who wish to explore it. Hotels are within walking distance of customs; though on a hot day, you and your luggage may appreciate a motodop (motorbike taxi), which for 500-1000 riel will take you to any part of Poipet. One could also be useful for escaping the transport monopoly hot zone of immediately outside immigration and finding a non scam taxi. There is also the free bus to the transportation depot, which is perhaps a false friend.
Spending time in Poipet involves being hassled, scammed and frustrated. Though these problems mainly fall on the post-border, bag-carrying weary. Check in, dump the bags, and shower - the town then looses many of its
See & Do
For those who look a little closer, Poipet has some vibrancy in the slums around the old stationPoipet is a border town typical of where shocking development disparities exist between two nations, not unlike Tijuana or Ciudad del Este or less famously, impoverished Sungai Kolok in southern Thailand, which borders more prosperous Malaysia. The town offer the usual Khmer mix of markets, stalls, coffee shops and beer gardens.
Poipet's growing gambling industry has spawned several large, opulent casinos, in rather sharp contrast to general squalor of the town. Gambling is illegal in Thailand and in Cambodia, though this has not prevented some well connected somebodies from putting up casinos before Cambodian immigration. Thais use the casinos to circumvent their own country's interdictions, though Khmer are not allowed at the tables.
The amateur anthropologist can watch Asian businessmen entertain themselves at the casinos or at the karaoke joints throughout town that double as brothels. Watching the coachloads of package tourists being shepherded through customs may also count as a valid pastime.
The area around the old railway station is particularly interesting. This slum backs onto the filthy trickle of a river that demarks the Thailand-Cambodia border and at around dusk tuk-tuks brimming with people can be seen making their way to the unofficial border crossing, an unstable bamboo bridge 400m down the dirt track south from the railway station. The path passes a small Cambodian police station. The Thai side is a minefield, but the well trodden path can be followed. It leads to a road. Being stopped at a Thai police checkpoint once on the road is likely. Note: Using this unofficial border crossing, apart from perhaps a few paces on the Thai side for bragging rights, will likely cause problems for conventional travellers, particularly upon their exit from Thailand. This option should only be used in the most extreme circumstances that preclude the town's regular border crossing.
People with a desire to help others can find opportunities in Poipet. Any assistance or conscious effort to speak Khmer or interact with local people on their own level will be highly appreciated. A man called Trip (+855 12 591 187 FREE) is a friendly English speaker. He will act as a guide to Poipet and tell you some interesting stories about the area. Cost: buying him lunch and a beer.
Eat & DrinkIf you're a sucker for the minibus to the Poipet Tourist International Terminal, you'll probably also be a sucker for the expensive snacks next to where it goes from.
Very close to immigration, on the northside of the roundabout, Long Sen Guesthouse has a convenience store. In front of the post office is a little street stall does reasonable meals and coffee and doesn't rip off tourists, which is a pleasant break from the border stress.
In the duty free zone, in front of the Poipet Resort Casino is a laid back coffee shop and cafe. Also, some of the casinos offer buffets. Though they have dress codes, so you may have to spruce up a bit. Holiday Palace and Diamond serve good coffee and even frappes and have airconditioning, although in Diamond you need to explore a bit to find it, an interesting experience in itself. Food in the casinos is good and a welcome change from the standard restaurants in town.
Beyond the immidiate border area, the markets probably offer the most atmospheric dining. Also Capitol Restaurant (2km from the border) has A/C. Meals cost $2-4.
Desitny Cafe (7am-8pm) - An NGO supported cafe with a range of breakfast options as well as lunch items such as Stir Fried Chicken with Cashews (90 baht). The onsite bakery also bakes a nice slice of banana bread for 15 baht. They also sell a variety of fruit or coffee drinks. About 2km from the border and roundabout.
Sleep
While many choose Aranyaprathet to spend the night, Poipet does have a resonable selection of accommodation. For the budget conscious, it is a cheaper option.
Poipet Phnom Pich Guest House (On the main street, about 500m from the border office, opposite the old train station). A good budget option, well placed for exploring the slum behind the station. Cheap, acceptable, with free Wi-Fi. Single room with fan, small window for $5 (150 baht). Twin room with fan $7. Aircon room $10.
Nita Guest House (near the casinos and the Cambodian customs office) Tel. 012-832026. Clean rooms with A/C for 500 baht.
Liv Hov Guest House (speak: Lee Hou), (On the second nameless sidestreet from the round-about at the border, about 250 m). edit
Hotel City Poipet. About 1Km from the border, on the left side of the main road in the direction of Siam Reap. Newly opened hotel, clean and quite cheap. For sure the best option if obliged to sleep in Poipet 12$ for a big aircon room with hot water shower. The restaurant next door from this hotel sells the most incredible pork, cooked right on the street. Excellent choice for breakfast when heading off to work hard for the day! edit
Long Sen Guesthouse, (On the north side of the roundabout, next to the convenience store), ☎ 012313187. Closest guesthouse to the immigration offices, unfriendly owner. Aircon room US$9 From US$6. edit
Sophal Thavy Guesthouse, (On the north side of the main road, about 100m from the roundabout), ☎ 012910735 011753252. Free WiFi. Aircon room US$10 From US$6. edit
Viroth Hotel, (The first guady hotel, next to the departure immigration office). Aircon, guady, pretentious, no internet US$18. edit
Orkiday Hotel, (The second guady hotel, nextdoor to Viroth Hotel), ☎ 012767676. Airconn, guady, pretentious, no internet US$20. edit
Huy Kea Hotel, National Road #5, ☎ 012346333. (Next door to Phnom Pich Guest House) Standard roomm with double bed, big Panasonic Air-Con, LCD TV & Cable, 2 free waters and 1MB Wifi for $11/$12 (Single/Double) $11.
Stay Safe
Like most of South East Asia, unprovoked violent crime is not rife. However, being foreign and out at night could be construed as sufficient provocation. During the day, one can wander through the town and its slums without fear of a beating. Being robbed more subtly via scams and pickpockets is a different matter. Any visitor should explore Poipet with the expectation of spending more than reasonable and also of losing the contents of his pockets. Wear a money belt and stand your ground if you think you are being scammed. Watch out for pickpockets and snatch thieves, including the adorable little children who swarm you and cheer at the border. If you've managed to arrange a taxi away from the monopoly, don't pay up front, and do not let anybody you don't know into the car. The small upside to the travel monopoly is that, once the exorbitant price for the taxi has been paid, they're reliable, and the driver will take you anywhere you like once you've reached your destination.